Belgrade 2.0
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Kafanas - national restaurants
National restaurant is in Serbian widely recognized as Kafana. While dining in a Belgrade kafana, the typical thing to do is to discuss politics, or more accurately, to quarell. It seems like the Serbs tend to think better with their stomachs full. So, the rule that says you should quietly eat your meal doesn’t apply to Serbia. Some of the kafanas in Belgrade where you can try Serbian dishes mentioned on this site:
In Skadarlija, look for Tri Šešira, Dva Jelena, Velika Skadarlija, Zlatan Bokal, Ima Dana, Šešir moj
Domovina, address: Bulevar revolucije 98
Kalenic, address: Save Kovacevica 2
Stara Hercegovina, address: Carigradska 36
Prolece. address: Vuka Karadzica 11
Marš na Drinu, address: Cara Dušana 66
Mikan, address: Maršala Birjuzova 14
Srpska kafana, address: Svetogorska 25
Orac, address: Makenzijeva 81
Grcka Kraljica, address: Knez Mihaila 51
Dva bela goluba, address: 29. novembra 3Visit also “Chobanov odmor” for some unusual fast food, address: Zarka Zrenjanina 34, or at 27. Marta 36
Velika Skadarlija
Traditional Serbian cuisine
Address: Cetinjska 17
Working hours: 09-01h
Tel: +381 11 32-34-983Tri šešira
Traditional Serbian cuisine with live music
Address: Skadarska 29
Working hours: 11 – 01h
Tel: +381 11 324-7501Zlatni bokal
Traditional Serbian cuisine with live music
Address: Skadarska 26
Working hours: 11- 01h
Tel: +381 11 323-4834 -
Serbian cuisine
Its hard to say which dish can be called typical Serbian. Serbian national cuisine is a basicaly a mixture of various meals from surrounding countries, only Serbs add more meat to it, and call it their own. Here are some typical Serbian specialties that can come before you in a plate when you go to a national restaurant in Belgrade.
Pecenje /pechenye/ – meat of a pig (svinjece) lamb (jagnjece) or veal (telece)
Cevapcici /Chevapchichi/ – grilled pig or calf meat, cyllinder shaped and usually with kajmak or onions
Pljeskavica /plyeskavitza/- Serbian burger, usually without the bun when ordered in a restaurant
Leskovacka muckalica – mixed meat sliced in tiny cubicles and served with hot chilli peppers
Karadjordjeva snicla or Devojacki san (roughly translated as Every girl’s dream) – large cyllinder shaped chunk of meat stuffed with kajmak, cheese and ham, usually comes with mayo and french fries
Prebranac – beans Serbian way
Papazjanija /papazyanya/- mixed pig, calf and lamb meat, all sorts of vegetables, roasted for 8 hours on mild fire
Teleca glava u skembetu – veal head with entrails (sorry, but you just had to know this)
Podvarak – roasted cabbage
Jagnjeca kapama – lamb ribs with spinach
Bosanski lonac – similar to Papazjanija
Gibanica – Serbian pie (not sweet, but with cheese)
Dimljena zlatiborska vešalica – smoked steak (made in a way they do it in Zlatibor, a mountain in Serbia)
Kolenica u kiselom kupusu – Red and salty beef in sauercraut (sour cabbage leaves)
Jagnjeca crevca u saftu – it’s best that this one remains without the explanation. Be brave and order it.
Pecenje sa raznja – Roasted meat of all kinds – most often pig or lamb
Culbastija /chulbasteeya/- grilled pork or calf steak with onions
Urnebes salad – like many specialities, this one comes from south Serbia too. it has chees, kajmak, garlic, chilli pepper, salt, oil and pepper in it. Usually very hot
Ajvar – type of salad made out of paprika, not neceserilly hot
Proja – type of tasty and heavy Serbian bread
Pihtije – pig or calf meat in jelly made of pig or calf meat
Cicvara, kachamak and popara – types of porridge
Corbast pasulj – bean soup, usually with big chunks of meat
Papci na kuma – this one is a surprise.
Šumadijska tepsija – this one too.
Pohovane telece nogice – Breaded calf legs
Duvan cvarci, or simply cvarci /chvartzi/– chips made out of pig. Sounds silly, doesnt it?
Suva kolenica – dry red beef
Dimljena rebarca – smoked ribs
Krilca na zaru – chicken wings roasted directly on fire
Kajmak – salty milk cream, very tasty and very strong (ca 7000 calories in a kilo)
Urmasice – sweeeet cakes.
Vanilice – this is what you might call “grandmothers cakes”
In most bakeries they make Burek – not a typical Serbian dish (more Bosnian, Albanian, Macedonian or Turkish) but you can find great burek in Belgrade too.Finally, take a look at this short video introduction to Serbian food and customs by Novak Djokovic, one of Serbian tennis stars.
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Gradonacelnik
Great live music, cosy little hard-to-find restaurant with exellent atmosphere and food, but also high prices
Address: Dragoslava Jovanovica 9
Tel: +381 11 3239-612 -
Indian palace
Daniel of The Native Speaker blog says that this Indian joint is as good as or even better than most in the US.
www.indianpalace.co.yu -
Lovacki Dom
Address: Njegoseva street, recommended by Eric from East Ethnia blog. They have the standard local menu which is okay, but the specials can be just fantastic.
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Monument
Probably best salads in the city. Address: Admirala Geprata 14
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ABC
Slow Serbian food concept, a bit expensive at the end, but worth it. Don’t get fooled by the lousy exterior of the restaurant, it’s what’s on the inside that counts. Address: Ohridska Bb
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Iguana
Cool place with super cool food, address: Bozidara Adzije 30 – also check out Desperate Serwifes review of Iguana restaurant.
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Kalemegdanska terasa
Elegant ambient, sterile music and high prices. Some people like it that way.
address: Kalemegdan Bb, tel: +381 11 328 3011 -
Trag
How bout some large and tasty portions (Serbian with a touch of international. Or is it the other way around?)
address: Djordja Jovanovica 2, Tel: +381 11 322 7495 -
Backstage
Exotic, fancy, healthy food – not your everyday Serbian food.
address: Svetogorska 19, Tel: +381 11 324 7468 -
Ottimo
Italian food, pretty pretty good. Address: Studentski trg 10
Tel: +381 11 189-514 -
Koshava
One of the first pizzerias in town, also one of the better and more expensive ones. Address: Kralja Petra 36 Tel: +381 11 627-344
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Na cosku ("On the corner")
Nice and cozy little fish restaurant, bit on the romantic side.
address: Beogradska 37 Tel: 3236-470 -
Zaplet
Beautifull interior, wide selection of dishes, tasty too, meny changes monthly. address: Kajmakcalanska 2, tel: +381 11 2404 142
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Madera
Used to be one of the legendary places where the old journalists and politicinas came to discuss current issues. Recently renovated, one of the nicest places in town.
address: Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43, Tel: +381 11 323 1332 -
Tribeca
Relatively new and fancy restaurant with chilled atmosphere.
address: Knez Mihailova 50, Tel: +381 11 328-5656 -
Reka
Great music and atmosphere, fish restaurant with good food but bit pricey.
Address: Kej Oslobodenja 73b
Tel: +381 11 618-500 -
Dacha
Serbian food for begginers. Some may call this a tourist trap, but even if it is, it’s the good kind.
address: Patrisa Lumumbe 49, Tel: +381 11 2781-009 -
Byblos
Libanese food, nice arabian coffee and hashpipe (and bellydancers if you want the whole thing).
Address: Kneginje Zorke 30
Tel: +381 11 2441-938 -
Zorba
Greek restaurant, good greek food, great lamb.
Address: 27. Marta 71, working hours: 9.30-01h, tel: +381 11 337-6547
